Inserted Tooth Sawblade

The Saw in History - on Inserted Tooth Saws -

http://books.google.com/books?id=2ztqAAAAIAAJ&pg=PA41&lpg=PA41&dq=inserted+tooth+saws+making&source=bl&ots=1p5kK4am2W&sig=seEjOPAYdxxJYR3JDkNGbWRQTWM&hl=en&ei=RgTpSp6LG4vg8Qbsx9iRDw&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=3&ved=0CB0Q6AEwAg#v=onepage&q=inserted%20tooth%20saws%20making&f=false

The hard part is "Hammering" a saw this is a process that is dependant on its gauge, its diameter and its intended speed - old timers can do it by some sixth sense (experience) me, I barely understand it... also keep in mind that a file, some punches, an abrasive stone, a hammer and vise where the usual toolset to maintain a saw up until fairly recent times ;-) >For low tech, I imagine if there's no laser, I imagine we can take any steel, then smooth it, and add insertable teeth, and >We're good to go. The teeth are what matter, not the plate, right? For the teeth, a simple grind on a rotary table of some >sort would do?

not really, (sooory!) It needs to be a specific grade of spring steel, a saw gets a LOT of dynamic loading while cutting and friction makes them heat up dramatically, the saw cuts VERY differently at different temperatures the heating can be asymmetric (one side rubbing in a sprung, timber bound cut (Timber bound is the internal stresses in a log being released - a 20,000 lb tree can have some massive stresses "Grown" into the wood you release them when you cut it) asymmetric heating causes the blade to "Cup" creates another source of stress and heating - its nothing to play with on a larger saw.

Q: Even the old time sawblades? I THINK inserted teeth are typically forged, but you could probably anneal, mill and heat treat before grinding. Most modern inserted teeth are carbide however and I know next to nothing about fabbing that...

> I didn't know they had 2-edge bandsaws. I was talking of circle mills.

these are handy for the afore-mentioned high speed with band mills- given you cut a board on each pass of the carriage

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