Cold Saw/Build Instructions/Fabricability Review

This is a page to review V1 design and 2d fab drawings.

Design

General

• Can you put in threaded rods and proper bolts? I don't need it for building, as I will be able to consult you if I have questions. However, anyone simply looking at the cad will have no idea of how the thing works. Threads are render-intensive, but changing colour for threaded sections can be done

• • MJ- This should be labeled in 2D Fab and Isometric assembly drawings. Please put these in the Control Panel on Flashy XM under Cold Saw

Cold Saw > 2D Fab and Isometric Assembly Drawings is Suboptimal Organization for both Indexing and Replication. A superior choice is Cold Saw > Index > ... > Part1 > Part1 Drawing

• Are there any mechanisms in place to precisely change the speed of the blade? For optimum cutting, the speed needs to be variable so that we can have the proper cutting speed for varied materials. If the speed is too fast, it will destroy the very expensive blade... Flow to the hydraulic motor can be adjusted.

• • MJ-zero to full adjustabel Flow control valve is the valve of choice for this system

Swivel

• Should be a grease nip around rod for swivel which allows lube.
• Any markers to tell you what angle the blade is at relative to vise? Protractors are a pain in the a** for fabricators. Markings will be more convenient. Stickers are sold online for stuff like that.
  • Need to add markers or set pins
• The nut on the rod should be a hex nut, not round... You won't be able to get a round nut tight enough to prevent swiveling. For that matter, milled slots could be adventageous on the base, so you can clamp in multiple spots.
  • who's got round a deez nutz?

Blade Guard

• Your design is doable, but requires more welding than necessary, and is wayyy thicker than necessary. Most guards I've seen are much thinner, around 16ga or thinner. An easy solution would be a round guard. It is easily torchable, and if you use thin material, you can bend the material as you're welding it. Thin circular blade guard is easier, eh- let's do it the easy way.
• Any reason it is so wide relative to blade with? it's wasting materials. YK: The blade guard must be wide enough to replace the blade without taking off the blade guard. BK: It still has over 1" extra.

DONE

Vise

I recommend revising clamp jaw and vise design, on the following fronts:

1. Clamp block should be as large as possible while retaining full range of motion; this gives more surface area for the jaws to mount to, increasing likelihood of remaining square over time.
2. Vise blocks should close all the way, or at maximum 1/4" away.
   1. May need to make vise blocks from multiple pieces so they can nestle above the center piece of the vise.
3. Jaws should be sliding on the bottom surface if possible--this will also go towards keeping it square. IE there should be a solid surface under them, they should not be floating, relying on the bolts to keep them vertically.
4. Slots on jaws for bolts should be centered-goes towards keeping it square
5. Slots should have radiused corners; no endmill is capable of milling a rectangle.
6. Handle seems to be a waste of material. I see 2 options:
   1. Machinist style vise handle (look on the mill)
   2. Table vise style, with sliding rod.

2D Fab Drawings

• Wherever possible, convert measurements to English units-- FeF Mills are in English units, so the conversion will need to happen either while milling, or on the drawings.
• Specify tolerances on all drawings
• Is there a cut list?

Base to Vise

• Does the bottom side of Fixed Block need to be machined flat? Same with top of base flat. If so, specify in drawing and instructions.
• Extend baseplate so the swiveling blade mount will always be on plate.
• Need diagram to show where to weld "long spacers"